Ching’s Ilocos Family Road Trip

It was a trip long overdue that it was already a thrill just to pack our stuff.

My family (Topy, our son Jacob and myself) was off to Vigan, Ilocos Sur by 8:00 a.m. on the first day of 2009.  We knew where we were going and had no inkling of where we would be staying, where we were to dine and had only a vague idea of how much we would be spending.  Bygones will be bygones, we thought, and it might make the trip all the more memorable.

We arrived in Vigan by 4:00 p.m., which according to a friend was faster than expected.  She told me that it would usually take 13 hours to get there.  Topy said that NLEX and SCTEX were sure to have cut a few hours off the trip, which made his driving job a lot easier.  Then again, having a race car driver must have contributed to the speed.

We went scouting for a place to stay, first visiting Vigan Plaza Hotel.  It was the most expensive hotel but was obviously the most popular, especially with the foreigners.  The decorations were lavish and boasted of rooms with electronic card keys.  I assume that none of the other hotels offered that.

Their standard room rates (for two) started at P2,600 and an additional person would cost  P750.  All standard rooms were taken and we were offered one of the Superior rooms, which cost P3,100.  Yaiks.

So off we went to Granpa’s Inn, which I found to be very charming.  Built in 1923, it was originally a home given as a wedding present to the original owner.  It was the first house with a bidet and indoor plumbing.  Converted to a bed and breakfast, it kept its old-world charm with brick walls and capiz windows.  They even had rooms with kalesa beds and I hoped we could have that room, but it was built for four and we were one man short.

It was our first choice.  One, it was clean.  Two, it had a quaint café and we were people who needed coffee in the morning.  But we were sold because of one their men named Jong.  Everyone in Granpa’s Inn were very friendly and accommodating but Jong stood out because he was the kind of person who seems to genuinely like his job and was very helpful, answering all our questions and even offering other alternatives for where we could stay.  He even informed us of kalesa tours offered at P150 per hour, which seemed like a very good idea at the time.

But we continued our search and saw Vigan Hotel which was the cheapest, but lacked that Vigan ambience (and I’m saying that as nicely as I can).  Cordillera Inn, which was along Calle Crisologo was our second choice because it was more quiet than the rest since the rooms were away from the sounds of motorcycle plus, it was smack right in the middle of the famous brick road.  Their rooms with an electric fan, cable TV and hot/cold water cost P1,000  only and the air-conditioned ones cost P1500 per night.  The concierge, Vince, was also the one who told us that most hotels offer free charges for children ten years and below.

And so we went back to Granpa’s Inn and we got the air-conditioned room with a matrimonial-sized bed, cable TV and hot/cold water with free breakfast for two at P1,680.  We soon realized that it was a mistake since the weather was cold and we spent the night with the air-conditioner turned off.  We were thankful, though for the hot water.

Though we originally planned to move to Cordillera Inn the next night, we already fell in love with Granpa’s and couldn’t leave so soon.  Also, we were able to get the fan room with the same amenities as the first room (with no hot water, which was terrible during this time of year) for P980.

Pluses for Granpa’s Inn were its staff.  They were all very helpful and I really liked how they would look you in the eye and give sincere grins.  Kudos also to the place, which was gorgeous. We also recommend their Vigan Tsokolate, worth every peso at P45 a cup.  My son and I had three cups each during our stay.  Jacob especially liked the yema balls that they sold at P25 for five pieces.  We found it too expensive and were delighted to find it being sold and manufactured just around the corner at Licaro’s Native Delicacies for P60 a pack of approximately thirty pieces.  Hahaaaaa.

Cons go to the tiny bathrooms.  I must’ve bumped my elbows four times, and if you have longer legs, you’d have to sit on the toilet sideways.  I’m not kidding.  The rooms might also pose a problem for light sleepers because the hotel is situated on a busy side and the sound of vehicles is pretty disturbing.  Consolation goes to the town that quiets down by 8:00 p.m.

Speaking of the town, it’s best that you do your grocery shopping before 6:30 p.m. and have dinner before 9:00 p.m.  The only grocery we saw near Calle Crisologo closed at 6:30 p.m. and the Mcdonald’s (delightful with “capiz windows”), Chowking and Jollibee all close at 9:00 p.m.

However, you can choose to have your fill of the Ilocos empanadas, fried fresh in food stalls near Plaza Burgos, which are open until about 10:00 p.m.  At P35 each, it is no comparison to the Ilocos Empanadas being sold in Manila.  On another note, Ilocos Sur empanadas have coleslaw (without the mayo), Vigan longganisa and egg while Ilocos Norte empanadas contain “balatong” (yellow mung beans), Ilocos Norte longganisa and egg.  I personally prefer the Ilocos Norte empanada for its fuller flavor.

Café Leona offers street dining until 11:00 p.m. but we found it to be even more expensive than what we spent at the hotel.  They do offer special dishes like the Pinakbet  pizza and the Bagnet pizza.  We tried the bagnet pizza (12 inches for P340) and though it was tasty, was similar to barbecued chicken pizza, only that they used bagnet and was baked in an authentic brick oven.

Café Uno in Granpa’s Inn is open until 11:00 p.m but opens a little late (taking into account Ilocos time standards) at around 9:00 a.m.  But considering that it seems to be the only café in town that’s still open past 9:00, we understand that it justifies a late opening.

On day two of our trip, we hired Mang Joe and his horse T-soy for a tour around town.  Our first stop was the Sinking Bell Tower and we were a bit disappointed to find that the gate leading to the stairs going to the top was padlocked.

According to John Mark, a little boy who loitered around the area, told us that it was padlocked due to a man who devised a scam where visitors were asked to register and pay a fee just to see the bell tower.  Thankfully, he was caught and imprisoned for his offense.

Our second stop was Syquia [see-kyah] Quirino museum, home of the wife of Elpidio Quirino where we met a member of the fourth generation of the Quirinos.  Entrance fee was at P20 but they also accepted donations for the upkeep of the museum.

Then we went to a pottery where we were lucky enough to watch a potter who made a perfectly symmetrical vase in under two minutes.  Large terracotta pots were being sold at P300 and above.

We then proceeded to the Hidden Garden which was beautiful and so serene.  It was here that we first saw a bonsai tamarind tree bearing fruit.  The Hidden Garden also had a bamboo grove with a café and restaurant.  It was so relaxing to hear the tall bamboo making slow “eek” sounds as it swayed.

Then it was off to Baluarte, obviously a popular tourist spot since it was the place with the most people.  We paid P10 for a bottle of milk for Jacob to feed the kids (I mean baby goats) and the calf.  He enjoyed it so much that he didn’t even mind getting licked by a 12-inch tongue.  We liked the idea of some of the animals (geese, deer, ostriches and dromedaries) being able to roam freely but were concerned that the miniature horses were overworked because of giving free rides to tourists. Jacob himself declined to have a ride to at least lessen the burdens of the horses.  So we went to check the tigers and were pleased to see that they were fed well enough to have a little bit of flab.

Our third day was full of promise as we headed farther up north, planning to spend the night in Pagudpod. Travel would be approximately three hours, without any stops.

However, a road trip to Ilocos Norte wouldn’t be complete without visiting the resting site of the infamous former President Ferdinand Marcos.  We made a quick turn going to Batac, hoping that the museum would be open on a Sunday.  Thankfully, it was.

However, Topy couldn’t hide his disappointment over the closing of the original museum, which was actually President Marcos’ home.  He was able to visit it in its glory days and he hoped to show our eight-year old the residence of one of the most distinguished men in the country. Reasons for closing up the museum were not revealed, but residents assumed that the house became too fragile for the general public.

What was left of the all that splendor were a few of the President’s belongings while he was in office, including letters he made in reference to the revolution.  I read the letters and saw an entirely different side of the former dictator and pondered whether tales of his supposed tyranny were parts of a conspiracy against him.  I recommend that when you do visit the museum, take time to read them.

We were also fortunate to see the mausoleum where he lay and Jacob was surprised to find out that such authority came from a diminutive figure.  We explain to him that it simply proves that brawn doesn’t always make the man, it’s what’s upstairs that counts.

Across the museum was Batac Church, built in 1587.  You couldn’t tell that it’s been there that long because of the refurbished exterior.  It was pink, for heaven’s sake.  Unluckily, the church was also closed so we weren’t able to see inside.  We can only hope that they retained the antiquity.

It was a little late when we got to Pagudpod and we decided to stay at Villa Del Mar.  The temperature being 18 degrees, we were prompted to take the non-airconditioned room for P900.  All rooms didn’t provide hot water and we braced ourselves for the cold bath ahead.

Villa del Mar offers various rooms and even duplex houses for large groups.  Our room was spacious and comfortable and I liked that they provided warm, tasseled blankets - reminding me that it was a regretful decision not to have bought one while in Vigan.

They also had a pool which was being cleaned at that time and a restaurant with a WiFi zone.  For this part, I would recommend that you bring your own food.  Dining here is highway robbery.  The Wifi service isn’t that great either.

The hotel however offers package trips to nearby tourist spots like the Kaibigan Falls and Aqua Grande. Trips are mostly done by tricycle and those that include banca rides cost P600 and the other, P300. We were tired and decided against going on the trips.  There’s always a next time.

Pagudpod has the reputation of being the “Boracay of the North” without the night life.  Expect that the din goes with the sunset.  I suggest that late sleepers bring portable DVD players, board games or cards or you’re in for one of the longest nights of your life.  Don’t count on night swimming either.  It’s too dark (also, freezing that time of year) and nobody is allowed near the water after 10:00 p.m.

Our last day was spent visiting other sights like the Cape Bojeador Lighthouse.  This was where we met the lighthouse keeper, Mang Jose who was kind enough to allow us entry into the lighthouse.  We were lucky, he said, for the lighthouse would be closed to the public in a few months.  We asked why and remarked that we would find out for ourselves.

And we did. The lighthouse was depressing to look at with graffiti, peeling paint and broken glass, all caused by visitors.  Mang Jose came from a lineage of lighthouse keepers and he grieved over the plight of his home.  He was promised funding from the government in 2008, but none arrived and he hopes that the senators he spoke with will remember him this year.  He asks nothing for himself but wishes that the lighthouse be given a renovation deserving of its service of more than 100 years (1892 - present).

Having a meager wage, Mang Jose is also thankful for any kind of donation the visitors could share.  It was heartbreaking not to be able to help Mang Jose in any other way than a donation and we hope that a funding could be provided for him and the lighthouse soon.

Reluctantly leaving Mang Jose and the lighthouse, our next stop was the Bangui Windmills. We were immediately humbled upon seeing the fifteen majestic structures yet awed at how massive they were.  They definitely look smaller in the pictures. It is conclusively one of our favorites since we spent a good hour there and we didn’t mind all that sand in our hair.  The windmills were truly remarkable.

The vacation was short, and it’s certain that we will return for a visit soon.

We arrived home very late, exhausted from the trip. Topy was most unfortunate having to drive all the way while trying to keep awake.  I told him that next time we go back, I’d make sure we’d go by plane.  But trooper that he is, he would have none of it. He insists that it’s also the journey that makes the destination better.

It took a year for us to actually have this trip and we’re glad we did.  The vacation was short, and it’s certain that we will return for a visit soon.